Home Recording Guide for Beginners: Equipment, Setup, Boom Arms and More

Recording at home is convenient, but how do you get started? Our guide tells you everything you need to know, plus some pro hacks. 

Everyone records at home these days, from the aspiring producer with 10 followers to successful artists with 10 million fans. But if you’ve never recorded at home before, you’ve probably got a lot of questions. Which mic should you buy? Do you need soundproofing? And what is a boom stand? 

Luckily for you we’ve got the answers right here, in one single guide designed specifically for beginners. There’s no jargon – just simple advice, plus a few pro hacks. You can also skip to the end for some quick fixes to common problems. 

Let’s start with the equipment you should invest in before you begin. 


Equipment part one: the mic 

The most obvious thing you will need is a microphone. But which one? 

The two most popular types of mics for recording at home are dynamic and condenser. Dynamic mics are great for live performance, because they don’t pick up a lot of background noise. In fact, that makes them great for home recording too, since our homes are rarely quiet. Oh, and one other benefit is that they’re virtually indestructible.  

SM58 Dynamic Vocal Microphone	SM4 Large Diaphragm Condenser Microphone

Condensers meanwhile generally capture more detail and are super versatile.  So, for your very first mic, we’d recommend a condenser. You can record voiceover narration, guitars, drums…basically anything that makes a noise, and it’ll sound amazing.
Now, condensers can get pretty expensive – some cost more than a small car – but you can get the new Shure SM4 for an entry-level price that still has high-end spec. 

Its wide frequency response means it's capable of accurately recording anything you can throw at it from vocals to guitars, drums to strings and woodwinds. Plus, the SM4 has a detachable magnetic pop filter that cuts out plosives (those breathy ‘p’ and ‘t’ sounds) as well as interference shielding technology that reduces radio interference caused by phones and other wireless devices. 

Equipment part two: the stand 

Equipment part three: the interface and the program 
The interface is a key piece of your setup. It takes the analogue signal from your microphone and turns it into a digital signal for your computer. It also controls the gain (i.e. volume) from your mic, allowing you to tweak it depending on whether you’re bashing drums or singing softly. 

To be clear: not every mic needs an interface. Some like the

MV7+ have a USB output that can plug straight into your laptop. But while USB mics can be useful, they can limit your setup – you can really only plug one or two into most laptops. 

So, if you ever want to expand your studio, you’re going to need an interface. 

For a first studio, the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 4th Gen is a great option. It has two inputs so you can record two tracks at once (for example, you could plug your electric guitar into one channel and have your vocal microphone on the other). It’s also got a clever ‘air’ function that uses filters to add a professional sheen to your recordings.

Finally, the 2i2 has the +48v – also known as‘ phantom power’. Now, that might sound slightly menacing, but is actually just a small electric current that powers condenser mics like the SM4 (so make sure you switch this on before you start recording). 

And don’t just take it from us! Check out artist and educator Reid Stefan’s tips and tricks using the SM4 in combination with the 2i2 below.
   
https://youtube.com/shorts/Hy3jG9qpp-M?si=-v9bcI0oLnPOVTvN

https://youtube.com/shorts/K_TK9MVSmDA?si=OrX7fa6Hb4dmy4Dx

https://youtube.com/shorts/KIw2EaGJMX4?si=FbeM1xvfkKTiSe-w

Another affordable option is Shure’s MVX2U interface. It allows you to plug XLR cables (see part 4 for an overview of these) straight into your computer and has up to +60dB of gain (which means you can use mics like Shure’s legendary SM7B without buying extra signal boosters).Plus, it works really well with Shure’s own ShurePlus MOTIV Desktop App. 

Speaking of which, you’ll need some software to record all of this (these programs are called DAWs, which stands for Digital Audio Workstation). First, we have the ShurePlus MOTIV Desktop App, which has all the basic recording features you need to get started. 

However, if you’re looking for something with more dials to twiddle, Macs come with Garageband, which is free and easy to use. Meanwhile Ableton Live Lite and Audacity are good options for both Mac and Windows.
Equipment part four: headphones and cables 

Our main advice is this: don’t use wireless options for recording. That’s because Bluetooth can create a slight delay (known as latency) between what your laptop plays and what you actually hear. The end result is that if you’re recording to a backing track you’ll end up playing slightly behind the beat. 

Instead, try for a professional pair of over-the-ear headphones that you can connect with a cable.

Shure’s SRH440A are studio-quality and affordable.

Finally, to connect your mic to your interface you’ll need an XLR cable. You can pick these up from almost anywhere – just make sure you get a male-to-female one (one end has three prongs, the other has three holes). 

Setup part one: microphone placement 

Where you place your mic will vary depending on what you’re recording. Let’s start with vocals and acoustic instruments, and work our way through to amplified and percussive ones. 

• Voiceover – To get that rich broadcast sound, you want to be quite close to the mic (pro fact: the closer you get to most mics, the more bass it picks up). If you’re using the SM4 with a pop shield, your mouth should be about 6” / 15 cm from the microphone (you can use your fist to measure the distance). Aim it between your nose and mouth and speak directly into the mic.
• Singing (quiet) – The same rules apply for singing as voiceover, with a couple of exceptions. If you want a more breath-y sound (think Billie Eilish) you can get in a bit closer – but be aware that the closer you get, the more low end you’ll pick up. 
• Singing (loud) – If you’re belting a banger, you can pull further away – something like the distance between your little finger and thumb should be fine. And if you’re picking up too much breath on the recording, try singing at a slight angle, so the air is going across the mic rather than straight into it. 
• Acoustic guitar – For a well-rounded sound, point the mic at about the 12th fret (about 9” / 20cm away). Move the mic closer to the sound hole for more bass and warmth. 
• Electric guitar – Point the mic out the outside of the speaker cone of your amp, about 3” / 9cm away. You can move it in closer for more bass, or further away for more treble and room sound. 
• Drums – Place the mic about 2-3 feet above the kick drum, centered between everything to get a balance between cymbals and drums is a safe bet. Alternatively, placing it closer to the kick drum and pointed in towards the snare or drummer's stool can get a nice punchy rock sound with some compression added. This will give you a surprisingly powerful sound for just one mic! 
  Percussion – Aim the mic directly at the instrument, with a gap of at least 12” / 30cm. 
• Strings, winds and brass – For string instruments, follow the same rules as for the acoustic guitar. For wind and brass instruments, point the mic at a 45 degree angle to the bell, about 12” / 30 cm away. 
  
  

Setup part two: acoustics 

If you have a choice of rooms to record in, pick the one that has the most soft stuff in it / the least reflective surfaces. 

What do we mean by that? Well, a bathroom is a bad choice, because all those hard surfaces will send unwanted sounds bouncing around. A bedroom full of pillows, cushions, plants, bookcases and curtains and other soft things is far better. 

If you’re recording a voiceover, placing a pillow or duvet directly behind the mic can also help to soak up unwanted reflections. And if you want a really dead sound, you can try recording underneath a duvet (but be warned: you will get sweaty). 

Another common problem with home studios is RF hum – basically, this is a hum made by wireless/wi-fi/bluetooth/2.4ghz devices that is picked up by your recording equipment. But don’t worry – if you’re using an SM4 this won’t be a problem, as it has built-in shielding – known as RF interference protection – that blocks out that unwanted noise. 
 

Setup part three: recording levels 

Setting the level used to be one of the trickiest things for beginners – set it too low and your recordings sound thin, set it too high and you get unwanted distortion (known as clipping). 

But here’s the good news: the Focusrite 2i2 comes with a built in Auto Gain that sets your levels for you. That means if you start laughing during a podcast recording, or move from gentle strumming to a guitar solo, no problem. Shure’s MVX2U interface also has an auto level mode that achieves the same effect. 

However, if you’re setting your own levels, the trick is to never go into the red (pro tip: you can make a quiet recording loud, but you can’t fix a distorted one). 

So, make a test recording first where you play as loud as you will in the final take. Use this to set the level, so that the recording level gets close to the top, but never peaks. 

Quick fixes for common problems
Problem: I’ve plugged everything in but when I hit record I’m just getting silence. 

Solution: If you’re using a condenser mic check that the “phantom power / 48v” button is switched engaged on your recording interface. Without this, your mic won’t work. 

Problem: I’m getting a lot of hum on my recordings. 

Solution: Recording hum can have a lot of causes – including ground loops, which are difficult to control. 

However, one fix that you can try is to unplug your laptop while you’re recording. This can prevent the USB connection between your laptop and interface from picking up RF interference. 

Problem: My recordings sound distorted. 

Solution: Reduce the recording level, so that you never go into the red (your recording software will have a visualization of this). If you’re struggling to get a balance between the loud and quiet parts of your recording, try switching to a Focusrite 2i2 as it has an Auto Gain function that will do this for you. 

Problem: My recordings sound muddy or unclear. 

Solution: The most likely cause is the room you are in. If it has too many hard surfaces then you’ll get sound bouncing around the room. That means the microphone will not only pick up the original sound from the instrument, but also the reflections, which leads to a muddy or unclear recording. Try some of the tips suggested in the acoustics section above to fix this.